How to Irish Crochet by Ann Reillet
Irish Crochet is an all encompassing multi-national word for various methods of open lace work that join raised motifs with a netted background. The history dates back centuries and hopefully it’ll never lose interest. Due to the amount of work it involves, it is often impractical to realize a profit from the making and selling of handmade Irish Crochet, but compare any piece to modern machine-made lace and you’ll know it’s worth its price in gold.
Here’s an article featuring a breathtaking Irish Crochet dress: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2014/02/17/irish-crochet-timeless-beauty/
The method of Irish Crochet that I use is called “Limerick Lace” because it uses a hook, rather than a needle, to create the picot netted background.
If you are interested in learning the needle method for creating net. See Lorelei Halley’s Point de Gaze tutorial on how to make the “Two Twist Whipped English Stitch” here: http://www.lynxlace.com/StitchesofPointdeGaze.html
Helpful to Know.
You don’t need to have any ancient knowledge or superior crochet skills to learn Irish Crochet. However, it’s helpful to know a few techniques that are involved:
CORDS: I-Cords and Romanian Point Lace Cords look beautiful in Irish Crochet, but true Irish Cord is made with padding. Padding is basically a technique that creates thickness in the edging. Instead of making a chain and crocheting over the chain, you use several strands (usually 4-10) of a thicker thread and crochet over the thickness of the thread.
PADDING: It’s also helpful to understand how padding is used within the motifs of Irish Crochet. You can experiment with this technique by using a larger thread (size 3 – 10) wrapping it around a AA Battery about 7 times and then sliding it off the battery. To hold in place, use a small single strand to tie a temporary knot. Then, using this as your starting circle, sc over the thickness of the wrapped cord with the smaller thread (size 30 or higher). Once the inner padded circle is filled in with stitches, trim the excess strands and join with a sl st to the first sc. As you continue making the motif, add padding again in other areas by taking about 4-8 cut strands of the bulkier thread and crocheting over these strands the same way you would crochet over a tail to tuck it in while you’re working. The result is 3-dimensional and provides a sense of texture and artistry to the motif. One might ask, ‘Can’t I just crochet over the chain and over it again?’ The answer is, ‘Yes, you can, but the motif will feel stiff, whereas the crochet-over-cord method keeps the motif pliable. This is especially important for vine work where you want to shape the motif to fit the layout of a bouquet.’
Here is a padded leaf pattern for beginners: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2014/02/13/irish-crochet-motif-leaf/
CLONES KNOTS: A clone’s knot is somewhat similar to a bullion stitch in that it is grouped with other stitches. There are several YouTube videos to help you master the clones knot. But don’t despair if it gives you trouble, because you can always use a standard picot (ch 4, sc in the 4th ch from hook) to create decorations along the netted background.
THREAD SIZES: Various sizes of thread are employed in making Irish Crochet. Traditional vintage thread sizes range from 60-80, which in modern crochet terms are defined as tatting thread; all of which use a 0.6mm #14 hook. For beginners: Larger threads (size 3, 5 and 10) should be used for padding, thinner threads (20+) for motifs and the thinnest (30+) for netting. If you’ve only worked with yarn, it’s a good idea to start with a large size 0 steel hook and sock yarn to make your first motif, as you get comfortable with the steel hooks, decrease the sock yarn to size 3 thread, then 5, then 10 (with a size 7 steel hook). The idea is to decrease gradually and build confidence.
Skill Level Increases with Practice
My first attempt at Irish Crochet was a baby bib… best to start small. For the first project, I used only size 10 thread. All of my instructions came from vintage sources; it was quite confusing. That is why I created this tutorial. Over the past few years, I’ve made several pieces, my skill level continues to improve and yours can too! You can see my first project here: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2011/12/30/irish-crochet-bib/
Steps you will need to take to make Irish Crochet:
1. Study & learn all you can about Irish Crochet from many sources.
2. Build up a supply of padded motifs. For beginners, motifs should be crocheted in a minimum thread size of 10 (preferably 20) with a size 7 or higher steel hook. Start with an Irish Rose and Venetian Leaf, then branch out; palm leaves, stars, oak leaves, grape vines. The possibilities are endless.
While this tutorial is for beginner’s, I encourage you to experiment, especially as you gain experience, employ smaller finer thread; even colored threads. Irish Crochet is traditionally a white work in thin 60+ wt. thread and #14 hook, but it looks great in color, and scarfs can be done in lace and sport weight yarn: (See Nicky Epstein’s Irish scarf patterns at Caron yarn.)
Here is a motif I created: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2014/02/24/free-irish-crochet-pattern-escape-flower-motif/
3. Prepare a workspace consisting of cambric cloth for penciling (nonpermanent sewing pencil) pattern outlines, thin cardboard such as watercolor paper for stabilizing the cloth, and foam pad or styrofoam that is thick enough to absorb sewing pins, which are used to secure the motifs and border while the net is being made.
You can read more about the workspace here: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2013/06/09/irish-crochet-board-creating-a-workspace/
4. Decide what you’re going to make. I recommend starting with a small item, not larger than a placemat. Suggestions: Bib, bonnet , collar, cuff, coaster, corner piece for napkins or place mats, etc…
5. Pencil or chalk the outline onto cambric (don’t use permanent ink otherwise you can’t re-use the cloth). Trace an actual item, such as a bib or collar or create your own design. Sometimes I trace the outline of a cut-out paper sewing pattern.
6. Crochet a border that is either a chain or padded Irish cord, depending on how thick you want the edge to be. If cords are new to you, just use a chain; you can always add padding in the finishing round [see step 12]. Pin the border in place and/or sew it down with a temporary basting stitch along the penciled outline on the cloth using a colored thread that contrasts with the crochet thread. Slip stitch the ends of the chain together or join; this eliminates sewing later. The idea is that you want the outline/border to stay in place while making the net.
7. Arrange your motifs so they fit inside the border in a pattern that is pleasing to you. I recommend sewing in the tails and snipping the ends of the motifs to keep the work area clean while you’re making the netted background. Iron the motifs first. You can gum and block them now or later, if you want to do that now see step 13.
8. TURN the motifs over so they are facing down and pin in place, pushing the pins all the way down so they’re not in the way. The reason for turning the motifs over is so it will look like the netting is coming from behind and pushing the motifs forward, thus improving the finished look.
You can see the finished scarf here: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2012/03/07/irish-crochet-shrug/
Pinning the motifs is quicker and easier than sewing them down, but you can sew them with a temporary basting stitch if you prefer. The idea is that you want the motifs to stay in place while you’re making the net.
At the end of step 8, you should have the following layers from bottom to top: foam pad or styrofoam, stabilizer cardboard, cambric cloth, chain outline border and motifs pinned or sewn to cloth. Everything is pinned down on the pad and secure. Right?
9. Start the netting in the lower corner of the largest open area (preferably at the very bottom of the border chain) because in the corner, you’ve already got 2 sides. Begin with a sl st. If you’re left-handed start on the left side of the border chain; if you’re right-handed start on the right side of the border chain. The sl st should be up 2 or 3 ch sps depending how tall you want the height of the square, ch 2, hdc (or dc depending on how tall you want the open spaces to be), do this hdc (or dc) on the lower side of the border chain, ch 2, sk 2, hdc (or dc). Now you have 2 squares, keep going.
Join to Border:
When you get to the 2nd to the last space at the end of this first row, stop and think about the letter “F” (left-handed) [or the mirror image of a letter "F" if you're right-handed]; instead of chaining 2 to the end, do a hdc (or dc) in the border chain that aligns with the top of this row. This keeps you in place, then chain up and repeat before changing directions for the next row.
Join to Motifs:
As you work up to the motifs, insert your hook in the st where you want the join to be, sc, then continue with your chs and hdc (or dc), trying to keep your rows lined up as much as possible. You can sl st over the back of the motif to get to the other side or you can work the area in between, tie off and work the next area, whichever you prefer.
By starting with a simple square shaped net, you will quickly gain an understanding of how the background is applied. The hardest thing for some will be re-learning how to position your hands and hold your hook because with everything pinned in place, it limits your movement so rather than bringing the work to you, you have to accommodate it. Try not to pull at the motifs, rather, turn the workspace 180 degrees, one row will feel natural and the next… awkward. Later on, maybe on the next project, you can experiment with doing a cluster stitch, picot trellis, bullion stitch or clones knot.
Note: When filling, the net is usually done in a smaller thread size than the motifs, but when you’re learning for the first time and practicing something new, use whatever thread and hook size you’re comfortable with and don’t worry about your edges, just focus on the pattern of the stitch; that is what’s important. Remember that when you’re making the net, you already have a border pinned down so your edges join to that framework. Use either a standard picot or clones knot:Traditional Irish Trellis with Two Picots:
1st Row: ch 16 (a multiple of 7 + 2)
2nd Row: sc in the 2nd ch from hook, *ch 2, picot (ch 4, sc in 4th ch from hook) [or clones knot: ch 5-7, yarn over-yarn under to catch one loop until you reach 7-14 loops on hook, yo, pull through all loops, ch 1 to secure], ch 3, picot, ch 2, sk 6, sc in the 7th ch, *repeat to end. Turn.
Note how wide the stitch is: 7 chains (2, 3, and 2) with two picots; that is why smaller thread is used.
3rd Row: ch 2, picot, ch 3, picot, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch of prev 3 chs betw picots, *repeat to end. Turn.
Note: For this practice tutorial, there should always be two (2) full trellis. The edges are not straight-straight, but rather triangular with the outer picots aligning to form a “straight edge.” These picots are where you would join to the border.
4th Row, etc. Repeat Row 3.
Basic Trellis with Single Picot:
1st Row: ch 26 (a multiple of 5 + 1)
2nd Row: sc in 2nd ch from hook *ch 5, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch *repeat across. Turn.
3rd Row: *ch 5, in 3rd ch of next ch 5 work sc-ch3-sc *repeat across. Turn.
4th Row: ch 1, sc in same *ch 5, sk picot, picot in 3rd ch of next ch 5 *repeat across. Turn.
To keep the edges straight, at end: ch 2, dc in the sc of last row’s 1st st.
After a dc ending: ch 2, picot in 3rd ch and continue pattern with ch 5, sk picot, picot in 3rd ch of next, etc.
Basic Trellis (no picot):
1st Row: ch 27 (a multiple of 4 + 3)
2nd Row: sc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 5, sk 3 ch, sc in next *repeat across. Turn.
3rd Row: *ch 5, sc in next ch 5 sp *repeat across. Turn
4th Row, etc: Repeat row 3
Various forms of netting can be employed including patterned stitches and filet. Another alternative is to make fill-in pieces of net, especially if you have large open spaces. Similar to motifs, fill-in pieces are worked first and sewn on cambric. Additional netting joins these little islands together. The technique gives the finished mesh a mosaic look and transfers time spent making the background with everything sewn down because it’s easier to crochet when the piece is free and you can hold it in your hand.
To start a fill-in: ch 5, sl st in 5th ch from hook to form ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), *ch 4, dc in ring, *repeat for 5 or 6 petal loops, join to 3rd ch of 1st dc, ch 3, and continue. As you tier up and outward, the ch 4 remains, but the spacing between dc decreases. You might do one round in the loops and in prev row’s dc, or put two dc in one loop. You can also quit the round direction, turn (with a ch3, ch 4) and work the reverse. The idea is to create a fill-in of fairly consistent size spacing, but less symmetry than a motif.
For the purposes herein, we won’t call this cheating. It’s actually another form of crochet from the French Guipure et a la croix or fil pour dentelles; which in modern crochet terms translates to: motifs sewn on filet. In the Guipure technique, no pad is used. The filet is made first then shaped and ironed in preparation for motifs, which are arranged atop the net and sewn to the surface. While this is not Irish Crochet in the traditional sense, the results are beautiful and symmetric. Any open-work net can be used; like a six-sided polygon: From starting ch, sk 8, dc in 9th ch, *ch 5, sk 4, dc in next ch, *repeat across ending with a dc in last ch, ch 3 turn (counts as dc), ch 5, dc in 3rd ch of 5-ch sp.
Whether it is Irish Crochet, French Guipure, Point Lace or Maltese Crochet Art everything traces its roots to Venetian Lace. This is where the oldest, earliest examples of decorated net are found. The Venetian technique uses connecting bars as fill or net. It is typically done with a needle rather than a hook, especially Sorrento bars. However, connection bars can be created with a crochet hook in the last round of the motif at the location where join is desired: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next, sl st in motif. Joins are made at the tip’s end: ch 3, insert hook in joining bar, sc, ch 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next, sl st in motif. The Venetian technique does not require a pad, but it’s imperative to have a pattern drawing aforehand in order to gauge the placement of connecting bars.
Net as you go:
Lastly, in some petal flower patterns, the net can be made as the motifs are created. In this technique, two or three of the petals are made in one row with the remainder created in the next. Since Irish Crochet is usually done with a variety of motifs, this method works best for edgings where uniformity is desired.
10. As you make the net use pins to secure it in place. Finish the entire netted background in one sitting… just kidding. It will take a while. The netting is a sort of free-form technique that takes a little forethought as you go. For example, if you need to turn or come back, you might put 2 stitches in the same open mesh and then work down the side of it. And don’t worry, even the most mathematical mind will work themselves into a dead end. When this happens, tie off and create a new sl st or, since we’re working from the back side, sl st over the motif to get to the other side. Either method works, provided the motifs are facing down.
11. Once the entire background is made, pull out the pins and/or basting thread and lift the piece off as one garment. Weave in tails.
12. Do a row of sc around the border and/or add padding or a decorative trim.
13. Block and iron. Blocking boards with lined grids are great for squares and rectangular pieces. When blocking, I use a “gumming” technique rather than full-on washing (submerging) because, it’s new, unsoiled. To gum, I wet a wash cloth and sponge that on the garment or use a spray bottle to lightly mist, then shape and iron. When ironing, I set the temperature to cotton with steam and gently press the back side or put a linen cloth over the front and iron/press. I don’t always starch, but it’s fine to do so. Once the piece is moist and pressed, pin on blocking board or Styrofoam to dry. The idea is to have the piece dried in the proper shape and wetting/ironing enables you to shape it.
Note: Historically dry Arabic Gum was used, hence the word “gumming.” I think the mixture was something like 2 tsp of powder to 1 pint of boiling water to create a starch that would leave the piece crisp while variations of the mix (less water) would harden it to a plaster-like crocheted tree ornament. Today Arabic Gum is seen in diet supplements and glue or gelatin. For obvious reason, it’s fallen out of use as a starch.
14. Leave color as is or dye it. If dying, follow the directions on the manufacturer’s instructions. I’ve used RIT brand with some success; it was gray dye on ecru cotton thread and the color came out light gray, almost dusty blue. I prefer powder to liquid and like to combine colors for various results. There are recipes on the Rit website.
If you want multiple colors, see my post on watercolor crochet using fabric dye: http://crochetthread.wordpress.com/2013/05/19/rit-fabric-dye-crochet-watercolor/
There are a few resources that I recommend:
The Antique Pattern Library.
Best FREE online resource
YouTube Channel titled Lace from Ireland.
Several free tutorials.
YouTube Channel titled Ira Rott
Not a tutorial, but her work is amazing to watch.
A world-wide collaboration of Irish Crochet. http://irishcrochettogether.blogspot.com/2013/02/a-true-collaboration.htmlIrish Crochet by Yhteinen Ystava
I had to throw this one in because anyone who knows me isn’t surprised that: I bought a Japanese book to learn Irish crochet. I only wish I’d discovered it sooner! The scarf on the cover is gorgeous, but there are a lot of motifs and purse patterns. Though the book is written in Japanese, a language I do not speak, patterns follow a universal language.
The Russians have forever changed the face of Irish Crochet; all that wonderful color and texture. Designers like Miroslava Gorohovich and Antonina Bobrova have renewed interest in Irish lace the world over. In the same way that Ireland made the French guipure their own by creating shamrocks and thistles, so too, have the Russians made many motifs reflect their culture.