Venetian Lace Square – Crochet Pattern

Venetian Lace

Venetian Lace

This Venetian Lace square originates in Bohemia prior to 1900. One of the earliest patterns for this square can be found in Sophie Tatum LaCroix’s first publication titled Old & New Designs in Crochet Work, Vol. 1, pg. 6, St. Louis Fancy Work Co., St. Louis, MO 32 pages. {World Cat #11507822}

I’ve worked this pattern many times and created a variation of the classic square that works for me. I hope you’ll give it a try. The instructions are written in a style that is (hopefully) easy to follow along. Here’s how I make the Venetian Lace Square or “Arabian Square,” as it was known in 1914:

Material for Table Cloths, Runners, Placemats:
Royale Classic Crochet Thread, Large Ball, Size 10, Natural
2.75mm Steel Hook, embroidery scissors and tapestry needle

Material for Curtains, Keepsakes, Insertion Lace:
Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread, Fine 20, Natural
1.15mm Steel Hook (US10), sharps and wide eye needle

To make a Jabot or Bow, join two (2) squares, accordion fold the mid section and sew it down. Cover with a thin strip of velvet or button. To make an owl motif, one (1) square.

Venetian Owl Motif

Owl Motif

Material for Afghans, Blankets, Throws
Worsted Weight Yarn, Sport Wt. Dk, or Baby Yarn
Size I Aluminum Hook or smaller

Skill Level: Easy +, if you have any trouble following the pattern please contact me and I’ll help you through it.

  • ch     = chain
  • sl kn = slip knot
  • sk     = skip
  • sl st  = slip stitch
  • sc      = single crochet
  • dc      = double crochet
  • sp      = space

Begin with sl kn, ch 20 (Horizontal Grid/Mesh = 5. Starting ch calculation 5 – 1 x 3 + 8 = 20)

Row 1:  Dc in 8th ch from hook, *ch 2, sk 2, dc *repeat to end = 5 ch-2 sps. Ch 5 (counts as next row’s dc + ch 2), turn

Row 2: sk ch-2, dc in next dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc *repeat 4 times to end. Ch 5, turn

Rows 3-5: Repeat row 2. Center grid = 5 L x 5 W or 25 tl sps

Do not break thread.

Part I, Side 1 of 4:

Rotating toward the bar of the last dc made. Working along this side. This is the “1st sp”.

4 sc in 1st sp

4 sc in 2nd sp

Picot (ch 4, sc in 4th ch from hook and in top of last sc made) or Picot (ch 4, sc in 4th ch from hook), whichever you prefer

4 sc in 3rd sp

1 sc in 4th sp, picot, 3 more sc in 4th sp

Leave 5th sp unworked

ch 12


sl st in the sc now located in the 1st position of the last sp [this is actually the 4th sc of the 1st sp]

ch 1


Working over the ch-12:

3 sc, *picot, 3 sc *repeat 5 times = 6 sc sets and 5 picots

4 sc in 5th previously unworked sp

Part I, Sides 2-4 of 4:

Repeat side 1. (Corners share space so they will have 8 sc tl or 4 per side and there are four sides

Tip: When you come to the tail from the starting slip knot, work over it so you don’t have to weave it in later 😉

6 sets of 3 sc and 5 ch-3 picots in each ch-12 sp

Part II, Side 1 of 4:

* sl st in 1st sc of side

ch 10

sl st in 2nd picot

ch 10

sl st in 4th picot

ch 10

sl st in 4th sc of side

Part II, Sides 2-4 of 4:

* Repeat for each side = 3 ch-10 sps per side or 12 total ch-10 sps per square

working final with 6 ch-3 picots per side

Part III, Sides 1-4:

Rotate. Working in 1st of 3 ch-10 sps on 1st side

(4 sc, picot, 4 sc, picot, 4 sc ) in each ch-10 sp; end with sl st in 1st sc and break thread = 6 picots per side or 24 total picots per square

Tip: Break thread long leaving a tail that can be sewn/weaved in with a wide-eye sewing needle.

Tip: Place a marker on the front of the center grid so you keep the squares front side up. It will help when joining next square.


Note that the finished Venetian lace square is only square shaped when the grid is diamond shaped rather than squared. Counting 6 picots across, you’ll notice that the first and last share a picot with the left and right side. Be sure to join in the 1st picot of the side you wish to join.

When joining, make sure the backs are together, facing each other so that it will lay out with both top sides showing. 😉

Work 2nd Venetian lace square up to the 4th picot on the final round. {The preceding 3 picots are not part of the joining side.} When you come to the 4th picot: Work: ch 2, sc with backs together in 1st picot on the side you wish to join to, ch 2 and continue working the new square until next picot for a total of 6 picot joins per side.

Note that when four (4) squares are joined together, the center forms a complimentary pattern. That is what makes Venetian lace so attractive and gives it a patterned look.


Weave (sew) in the tails to secure. I do this as I go at the end of each row.

Leave color as is or dye or tea stain. If dying, dye first, followed by a cold salt water rinse and hang or block to dry.

Starch and press using iron set to cotton with steam. Iron on the wrong side or place a linen cloth between the iron and the front, testing first to avoid scorching.

Pictures: I’m left-handed so you might need to look at these images through a mirror.

Hand Book of Crochet
Volume No. 2
Needlecraft Publishing
Page 19
Figure 36
Medallions & Inserts

The pattern is also described in 1914 “Arabian Square.”

10 thoughts on “Venetian Lace Square – Crochet Pattern

  1. Hello! Thank you so much for sharing this version of a classic pattern. It has helped me a lot. The only thing I would suggest changing (what I was initially confused on how to do) is the picot, which I think should be written as “ch 3, sl st in same sc stitch.” I wasn’t connecting the chain three like that as I was going along and it wound up just creating a loosely formed ring. Otherwise, I was able to understand everything, and this is the perfect size for the project that I am creating. Thanks again!

    • Thank you. Glad it helped. I think for this pattern, I just did the loose picot with a ch 3 only, but you’re right the sl st in same makes for a tighter picot. As always, experiment! Cheers, Ann

  2. This is soo beautiful , as I’m not that much of a crochetere I was wondering if u could guide me. If I were to do this as a blanket and use a suitable backing fabric.would I be able to maintan the shape of the squares . Thank you in advance.

    • Thank you. There is shrinkage, so if I were doing that, I would crochet the blanket first, wash and block it then wash the fabric before cutting it; that way the size should remain consistent for years to come. Good luck with your project. – Ann

    • One square, the first square is worked to completion, It has 4 sides, 6 picots per side, but because the square is only square shaped when the inner filet is diamond shaped, the first three (3) picots of the next square start at the ending half (numbers 4,5, and 6 of 6 total picots per that side) so when you work up to the fourth (4th) picot of the next square, it’s the first of six joins.

      Work up to the 4th picot on new square, chain 1 (or 2, whichever you prefer), Line up backs facing (like a bread sandwich), insert hook in the corner picot on the finished square, pull through a loop, yarn over and draw through all loops on the hook (it’s a sc), ch 1, drop the finished square and continue working on new square until you get to the next picot, then chain 1, line up backs facing (making sure it’s not twisted) insert hook in the next picot on the finished square, pull through a loop, yarn over, draw through all loops, chain 1, drop the finished square, continue working on the new square until the next picot, repeat the joining process for six (6) total joins.

      I hope this helps.

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