by Ann Reillet
Vintage patterns are often hard to follow and this early 20th century Irish crochet bonnet with roses was no exception. The original pattern completely befuddled me, so I created a bonnet in-the-style of the picture using techniques that worked for me. I hope that you’ll give it a try.
1 sk crochet cotton thread, size 30 in natural
Size 10 steel crochet hook
2 long thin strips of ribbon in pink
2 stitch markers
small shears or embroidery scissors
tapestry needle to weave in tails
Construction begins at the back.
If you already have an Irish rose pattern that works for you, use it. I’ve found that there are several methods to make Irish roses, some with inner padding, some with a solid dc centers and others with open centers. Another difference is how many petals per round as well as the number of rounds of petals the rose has, which vary from 2 to 4. For this bonnet, I wanted to keep the roses open and small so the single back center rose has 3 rounds of petals, yielding it about 1 1/2″ in diameter, but the side roses (18 total) have only 2 rounds of petals, making them just over 1″ in diameter. All have open centers.
Here’s how I made the Irish Roses (8 Petal):
(Don’t make them all at once, because they’re joined to the bonnet & to eachother as you make them.)
ch 5, join with sl st to form ring,
ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in ring, *ch 2, dc in ring, * continue 5 times = 8 dcs & 8 sps. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 5.
In each sp work: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Join with sl st to the back post of the 1st sc. = 8 petals on 1st petal round.
ch 6, sl st in back post starting sc of next petal. Continue around, join with sl st.
In each sp work: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. = 8 petals on 2nd petal round. (For back rose (1), continue work. For side roses (18 total), end here.)
Join with sl st to back post of first sc. ch 7, sl st in back post starting sc of next petal. Continue around, join with sl st.
In each sp work: 1sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Join with sl st, do not break thread. = 8 petals on 3rd/final petal round.
Make the back single Irish Rose with 3 rounds/tiers of petals (8 petals per round) ending with a sl st in the starting sc.
Ch 3, sl st in same sp between petals to form a picot.
*Ch 5, sl st in the center dc of this petal-ch 3-sl st in same to form picot. Ch 5 sl st in the center sp between this and next petal-ch 3-sl st in same to form picot. *Continue around. = 16 picots. Join with a ch 2, dc in first sl st.
*Ch 6, sc-ch3-sc in each sp. *Continue. Join with ch 3, dc in first sc.
*Ch 6 or 7, sc-ch3-sc in each sp. *Continue. Join with ch 3, dc or triple in first sc.
Continue in this manner, increasing chains as necessary to construct 5 rounds of trellis with picot or until the back center measures about 4″ in diameter.
If you want to make the netting match the vintage pattern, it’s the traditional Irish trellis with two picots: *ch 6, sl st (or sc) in 4th ch from hook, ch 7, sl st (or sc) in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, sc in top/middle of next petal, *repeat and sc in between next. Note: I struggled with this as well as the increase to prevent curling. I think, you have to not worry about the placement so much as placing the sc at balanced intervals whether that is in the middle of the petal or somewhere along the side. As always, experiment.
sc over the ending trellis of the entire 4″ circle including the sp within each picot. Don’t worry that the circle loses its perfectly round shape.
Let’s think of the circle as a clock. Place a stitch marker at the hour hand of 4:30 and another at 7:30. This area will serve as the bottom of the back of bonnet.
In the area that is NOT designated as the bottom, do another row of sc over each sc. (Leave the st markers in place.) Break thread.
Make the 1st of 18 total Irish Crochet Roses, up to the last 6 petals of 8 total petals on round 2.
On the 6th to last petal (or 3rd petal of round 2), work up to the center dc then sl st with BACKS facing to the sc where you want to join the rose, continue working until next petal.
Make sure that you’re NOT using the area designated as bottom from step 3.
Repeat the same joining method fitting in as many roses as needed. (Mine was 9.)
The first rose is joined to the bonnet back with only 2 joins.
The second rose is first joined to the preceding rose, then to the bonnet back. = 4 joins
All joins are done immediately after the center dc of petal being joined.
Create 5 rows of trellis with picot along the forward section of the preceding row of roses. Ending with a sc border similar to Step 2.
Create another row of roses, joined to the sc border of Step 5. Do not break thread on final rose.
On the bottom edge of the entire bonnet, including back, create a shell border OR (if you’re not sick of doing roses) add roses along the bottom… then your bonnet will really look like the picture 😉 End. Break thread. Weave in tails.
Weave ribbon over-and-under the bottom edge above shell, leaving enough ribbon to tie or secure.
Weave ribbon over-and-under the front edge above the roses (close to the join), leaving enough ribbon to tie or secure.
Tie the 4 strands of ribbon in a big bow and snip tails at a length that looks good to you.
Block and Iron before boxing/gifting.