A Book of Edgings
Helen S. King
King’s Needlecraft and Lace Studio
Cover Photo Pattern: “No. 19 Pillow-Slip Lace”
Plum edging shown in worsted wt. yarn with an H hook. Each motif is 6″ across and two rows are 7″ in height excluding the straight edge (shown in cover image).
Note: The pattern was picked up again the following year in Priscilla Crochet Book, Edgings & Insertions, Edited by Eliza Taylor for Priscilla Publishing, Boston, Mass., 48 pages 1913. See Fig. 27, pg. 7 and photo, pg. 9.
Original pattern available online free of charge at Antique Pattern Library. The original is worked in four (4) rows, excluding beg. ch 10, using a triple treble (yo 4x) for the 18 sts that make up the flower, rather than 3 rows of dc plus padded center in this variation. See comparison (shown left).
Worked in Size 20 thread with a #10 steel hook, these smaller white motifs measure 1 1/4 in. across.
Vintage 1912 Crochet Edging Pattern
A variation of the original pattern:
1) ch 6, sl st in 6th ch from hook to form ring
2) ch1, 12 sc in ring, do not join now or throughout
3) ch 3, turn, 15 dc in ring over sc
4) ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each dc to top, 2 dc in top dc, continue dc’ing to last dc (sk ch 3)
5) ch 3, turn, begin count for 18 dc in this 3rd row
6) Petals: ch 4-tc-tc tog in each stitch, ch 5, *3-tc-tog, ch 5. *repeat (=6 togs and 5 chs)
7) Stem: ch 1, turn, 9 sc in each ch 5 sp (=1 top motif)
Tip: Place a stitch marker to designate front and label as top or bottom
8) At end, do not break thread, but continue with step 1 to create the lower motif, then break thread and start new motif, joining the last petal at stem in step 7 to the first open top (this is actually the 2nd petal on the top). Pattern can be worked from either direction two motifs at a time or continuous if you leave the stem unworked until desired length is achieved; filling in at end.
Join top tier with the 2 end petals and join bottom tier with the 2 beginning petals in step “7)” and continue for desired length.
Tip: Refer to vintage cover picture for placement of joins
To Work in Color
Color A (center of flower) #1 & #2
Color B (flower) #3 – #6
Color C (stem) #7
In a straight line, note that there are two (2) rows of motifs. The ending sides of which are uneven by one motif on the top and one on opposite bottom. Being left-handed, I started with the longer bottom side on the left and worked to the right. Mirror this if right-handed.
Begin with sl st in center of bottom longer motif (the one missing a stem) Chain 10, sl st in 1st petal of upper motif (joining to existing stem of top motif), ch 4 (counts as vertical tc) ch 5 (this is the horizontal space), dc in 2nd petal of upper motif, ch 5, hdc in 3rd petal, ch 5, dc in next, chain 5, tc (hold for tog) in 3rd from last sc between 4th and 5th petal, dtc in join (hold for tog), sk 2 sc, tc in next sc (tog-three), ch 5, dc in 2nd petal of 2nd motif, ch 5, hdc in next petal, ch 5, dc in next, ch 5, tc-dtc-tc tog as before, ch 5, dc, ch 5, hdc, ch 5… etc across
turn, ch 3 (counts as vertical dc), ch 2 (counts as horizontal space), dc in 3rd ch of previous row’s ch-5, ch 2, dc in next st, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch, ch 2, dc in next st… etc across
ch 1, turn, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across
break thread, weave in tails.
To even sides for flat work, crochet a 1/2 motif by decreasing from 18 to 9 adding only 3 petals. To work in the round, for pillow case trim, join at both ends.
To work as insertion lace, add trim to top and bottom.
To work as cuffs, join 5 across for a total of 10 motifs, add edging and clasps.