Irish Crochet Motif
by Ann Reillet, c. 2014. All Rights Reserved.
This is a free form Irish Crochet motif of a Viking Longship in US20 thread with a #10 steel hook. Made in sections and sewn together using the tails, the finished motif measures 3″ width by 2 3/4″ height.
Boat: (Above in size 20 thread with #10 hook, Below in size 8 with #7)
ch 65, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch, add 2 extra sc in last st (to rotate for oval)
Having rotated the work, working from the back side and working over the beginning tail, sk the 2 extra, and sc over the next st inserting hook into the 2 bars located on the bottom to thicken, but not widen. At end, sl st in next st to bring this end to a point or to make it less square
sk 12, sl st, turn, insert hook in next st on worked area, then 1 more sl st on tail (so the join is 2 sts), Note: this step is unusual, but for aesthetic reasons. If it’s not clear, you can always add a little sewing thread to squeeze this connection together.
6 sc over tail, 2 sc over each of next 3 sts working into 2bars located on the bottom, now sc as usual on the top of the st: 20 sc, sk 2, 10 sc, sk 2, 14 sc, (In the top yellow pix I sk’d 1)
Extra sts in each remaining as follows: sc-hdc, hdc-hdc, dc-dc, dc-ch2-dc, dc-dc, dc-ch2-dc, dc-hdc-sc. At end, sl st in bottom to tighten, ch 1, turn
sc in next 4, hdc in next 6, sc in remaining until 2 sts before the turn, 18 sc or stopping 2 sts above the turn for boat-bottom,
Pause, pin on blocking board, manually shape the head by folding over or behind or accordion fold until you have a shape that resembles a head, dragon, horse, etc… pin in place. Using sewing thread or crochet thread in similar color and a sewing needle, sew the head in the shape you want.
Resume, sk 2, 2 dc in 1st bottom, dc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in last, sk 2, sl st in next 3, turn, dc across bottom placing two dc in 1st and last st, repeat for a total of 3 or 4 rows of dc across bottom. Add 1 row of sc or hdc across the dc for cleaner edge.
Optional, sc around the entire perimeter, or add add’l shaping if desired like on the head maybe frill, horns, or mane, etc…
End. Break thread. Weave in tail. Pin on blocking board.
ch 3, *hdc in 3rd ch from hook, *repeat 11 times, join with sl st to 1st hdc,
ch 2, hdc in same (or, to make smaller, ch1 and substitute sc for hdc), *1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, *repeat around. Join with sl st to first hdc. End. Break thread long.
ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, 2 extra in end, rotate for oval, work 6 sts in sc, reverse and work sc down again to bottom and then back up the entire piece so that the oar bottom is thicker than the oar top; creates paddle.
ch 25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, 2 extra in end to rotate for oval, work sc back to top using the 2 threads on the opposite side (too thicken but not widen). End. Break thread long.
1. ch 21, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch back
2. ch 4, sk 1, *dc, sk 1, dc *repeat to end
3. ch 3, dc in each dc and ch 1 sp
4. repeat row 2
5. repeat row 3
work until there are 3 of each type (row 2 & row 3), end, break thread long.
Pin on blocking board, line up the 3 shields on the boat, sew one shield to the boat on either side using the tail from the shield, then sew the middle shield to the end and to the boat, then the last. Next, fit the oar into the space between the back and middle shield and sew it to the boat. Third, sew the mast to the sail so that it sticks out on the top and bottom. Now sew the sail at a slant to the boat. End. Weave in tails.