This insertion motif was inspired by a vintage garment I saw on ebay; an Edwardian lawn dress with a lovely crochet inset. Photo Courtesy of Seller.
Lawn cloth is a plain weave textile, originally of linen but now chiefly cotton. It was developed using very fine (high-count) threads, resulting in a silky untextured feel. In relation to muslin, lawn is a much denser weave. In relation to voile, lawn is sheer semi-transparent and untextured.
The term “lawn” derives from “Laon”, a capital city of the Aisne Department in Picardy, Northern France, which produced large quantities of lawn fabric in the Edwardian period.
A typical Lawn Dress is a showcase of sewing skill comprised of lace insertions interspersed with embroidered lawn fabric. Although they were commercially produced, many people chose to create their own resulting in ooak heirloom dresses.
When working with modern lawn fabric, it’s important to properly prepare the fabric; wash and dry to remove shrinkage, iron and starch with heavy starch, and measure out seams and hems in relation to the grain of the fabric. If hand-sewing use an embroidery needle and embroidery thread. If sewing on a machine, change the needle to a fine point like 70/10 or 80/12 and use embroidery thread as opposed to all purpose thread because the embroidery thread is finer. Lastly, you’ll need a special foot on your machine called a “roller foot.” It works like a feed dog to grip thin fabrics from the top, moving it along the textured rollers to keep a good grip so the fabric doesn’t bunch. When attaching to open lace insertions like embroidered net or mesh, I use a strip of water soluble embroidery tape to stabilize the seam along the mesh. If attaching to crochet, it’s best to sew by hand creating a handkerchief edge on the fabric and whip stitch the seam from the back (fronts facing).
Crochet Pattern – Insertion Rosace – Vintage Inspired
Worked in #20 thread with a #10 hook, the 4 rosace insertion with surround measures 2″ x 9 1/2″, not exact, but in-the-style-of.
When finished joining desired number of motifs into a diamond shaped pattern. End. Break thread. Weave in tails.
Attach thread to either narrow width side picot corner (corner defined by diamond shape).
Side corner consists of sc in first corner picot, ch3, sc in next picot,
New Corner consists of a ch 4, hdc in picot, ch 10, hdc in picot, ch 4,
This brings you back to next side (corner of diamond and working along the length), sc in picot, ch 3, sc in next picot, ch 4, hdc in picot, ch 5, 2 triple treble together each of next two picots, ch 5, hdc in picot, ch 4, sc in picot, ch 3, sc in next picot, ch 4, hdc in picot, ch 5, 2 triple treble together in next two picots, ch 5, etc…
Note: The triple-treble (yo3x) produces a straight edge. To make the insertion bow (like the photograph of the vintage garment), substitute the triple-treble for a double-treble (yo2x) tog stitch and decr the chain between from 5 to 4.
Join, fill with sc +1 for each ch sp, excepting corners (add 3) and middle (where tog is) add 2 extra on each side of middle ch5s.