Spanish Lace encompasses many mediums from ruffled Chantilly to Tape Lace. It’s characterized by lines that seem to go off in every direction and circle back; a network of rich decoration. It’s typically made in solid contrast, black or white. Therefore, it tends to showcase in mixed arrangements or insertion lace on textured fabric.
Material 4″ Square
• Dragon Tale Yarn, Earth Guild 5/2 Rayon Black
• Boye No. 2 (2.25mm) Steel Hook
• Scissors, Wide Eye Needle (for weaving in tail)
- DMC No. 12 Perle Thread with No. 10 (1.30mm) = 2″ square
- Vanna’s Choice, Lyon Brand, Worsted Weight with USA H (5.00mm) = 8″ square
1st Rnd: ch 7 (counts as tr + ch3), tr (yo2x) in 7th ch from hook, *ch3, tr *repeat for 8 ch3sps, join w/ sl st to 4th ch of beg tr
2nd Rnd: in each ch3sp work: (sl st, ch 3, 4 dc, ch 3, sl st), at end, omit final (ch 3, sl st) and replace with (dc)
Note: you can omit the last dc, use a ch3 as before and sl st down, then over and up to the next dc on the next petal to work in forward motion as you commence the next round, but what I did was replace the last ch with a dc and then turn the work to make the points on top of the petal. Either method works, your choice.
3rd Rnd: ch 3 (counts as dc), TURN, *(5dc-tog-dcr), ch 7, *repeat around, join with sl st in 1st petal point
4th Rnd: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), TURN, “X” dc in prev sp, *ch 4, sc in ch7sp, picot (ch 3, sc in top of last sc), sc in same ch7sp, ch 4, “X” dc forward on next point, ch 1, “X” dc backward in preceding st, *repeat around, join with ch 1, dc in beg st
Now the 5th final and joining round is Venetian Crochet, meaning, we chain back then work forward over the chain. Therefore, a lot of turning at corners and sides. We’ll begin with a corner.
ch 5 (counts as dc + ch2)
3dc in ch1sp betw “X” st, ch 3, TURN, sl st in last dc (that is actually the 1st dc we made), ch 1, TURN, working over the ch3sp, (sc, sc, picot, sc), sl st in top of dc (to resume height), ch 2, dc in ch4sp,
Note: This point with picot design will be made over all 8 petals of the center flower, but only every other one will be a corner. We begin with a corner, so continue…
*ch 3, TURN, sc in picot, ch 3, sc in same picot, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg dc, ch 1, TURN, working over ch3sp, 3 sc, working over the ch3sp atop picot, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc), working over next ch3sp, 3 sc, sl st in top of dc (to resume height) = 1 Corner Made,
ch 5, dc in next ch4sp, ch 2, 3 dc in ch1sp between “X” st, ch 3, TURN, sl st in last dc, ch 1, TURN, working over ch3sp: (sc, sc, picot, sc, sl st in dc to resume height,) ch 2, dc in next ch4sp, ch 5, dc in next ch4sp, = 1 Side Made
Repeat for each Corner & Side
Flower on left shows (optional) center flower, this is just a small flower that I sewed over the center. I did this because I’m making a vest and wanted to mark the front side; helps when joining other squares.
Commence with 1 square as worked in Rnds 1-5. To join subsequent squares OMIT the picot top on the “side” or center of side, work corners as usual and join corners with ch1, line up backs facing, sc, ch 1, sl st resume work up to ch5sp, and join in 3 places, at the 3rd ch of the two ch5sps and the 2nd dc of the trio worked in the “X” st. The reason for omitting the side / center top is that they seem to overlap when joined and we want the square shape of the pattern to remain a square, especially when 4 squares are joined to form a larger square.
In the Vanna’s Choice yarn, with an H hook, the only variation was omitting one dc from the lower petal (4 dc was reduced to 3 dc), it still has the ch3 on each side, everything else was the same. I turned this into a baby blanket.