Vintage 19th Century French Inspired Shoulder Wrap
Printer Friendly Pattern Crochet Vintage French Inspired Shrug
This decorative 19th Century shoulder warmer sold on EBay in December 2014 by Madame Soussou. It’s an off-shoulder shawlette with braid and fringe originally made in macrame. This is a crochet interpretation of the design based on the photograph. It was fun to make and not too difficult; I hope you’ll give it a try.
The colors consist of at least four (4) earthy Autumn shades. The main body is light brown similar to toasted bread. This acorn shade is paired with a darker maroon brown. The trim is a yellow ochre or golden with added cinnamon-coral accents for flowers and fringe. Originally made in a fingering silk, I’m using 3/2 cotton cones with a 4.00mm aluminum hook size G. Cones are sold in 1/2 lb. Feel free to use any material or color palette of your choice.
1st Row: ch 2, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, turn,
2nd: sc in 1st sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 5, turn,
3rd: sc in ch3sp, ch 3, sc in next ch3sp, ch 5, turn,
4th: sc in sc (to increase mesh), ch 3, sc in ch5sp, ch 3, sc in next ch3sp, ch 5, turn
5th: sc in ch3sp, *ch 3, sc in ch3sp, *repeat to end, ch 5, turn
6th: sc in sc (for incr), *ch 3, sc in ch3sp, *repeat to end, ch 5, turn
• Repeat rows 5&6 so that new increases are made on 1-side-only.
• Continue increasing to 10 ch3sps, then hold at 10 for 12 rows.
• Increase to 11 for 12 rows, then 12 for remainder & hold.
• When you reach the 1/2 point (i.e. 21″) reverse order to mirror.
• Decrease on one side only, at end, ch1, turn, sc in ch5sp, ch3, sc in next ch3sp
When finished, in main color (i.e., light brown or caramel), work 1 row of sc all around as follows: 2 sc in ch3sp, 1 sc in sc (=3 tl per mesh)
• If waffling, temporarily omit one of the 3 sc.
• Likewise, if curling, periodically add a sc.
Note that the straight edge is designated “Top” and the sloping edge is designated “Bottom”
• Add a stitch marker to the center bottom.
• Add two stitch markers the top fastener area at about the 15th row of each side. This is where we’ll place our tie front. Adjust as needed. The goal is to come together in the center front and allow the ends to drape and align.
There are four (4) decorated edges: Top, Bottom, and Two Ends. The top is a popcorn with frame using two (2) colors. The sides are an airy shell worked in a single color only. The bottom is fringe comprised of all colors used in this project plus accents.
Begin in darker brown, work one (1) row of sc in back-loop only, all around. This row may also be used to decr for waffling or incr for curling.
Continuing in dark brown, work along the bottom only, and working in the front-loop (this leaves the back loop open for fringe, which we’ll add later). Make one (1) row of shells: ch1, *sc, sk 2, shell (dc-ch1-dc-ch1-dc), sk 2, sc, *Repeat across bottom, when you come to the front edge, along this edge make 5 or 6 evenly spaced picots interspersed with 3 or 4 sc, work to the stitch marker, when you come to the top, pause (do not cut thread).
Working in yellow, work along the designated top in between the stitch markers, and work in the back-loop only, begin with ch3 for 1st of 5 tl dc in this st, then popcorn the sts, ch3, sk 2, *5dc-popcorn, ch 3, sk 2, *Repeat across top, when you come to the next stitch marker at the opposite front, end. Break yellow thread.
Continue in dark brown, from where we paused, ch 2, *sc in top of 1st popcorn, dc over the ch3sp and into the 1st skipped/unworked st, dc in next skipped st, *Repeat across, at end join to prev row on side edge and again evenly space 5 or 6 picots interspersed with sc along the side, join to bottom border. Break brown thread. Weave in tails.
With strands of all colors, add classic fringe evenly spaced along the bottom in between the shells. Trim as needed. If you’re unfamiliar with how to add fringe, it’s basically starting from center bottom, cut 10″ strands from each color used, and mix lots of 6 strands (so they’re colorful), fold in half, from the back side, the unworked st, insert hook from bottom, catch center of strands, pull thru with hook wide enough to insert finger then manually feed the strands through the loop, tighten and straighten as needed. Wait to cut/trim the ends until finished and work outward from center evenly spacing as you go.
The decorative appliques consist of three (3) elements: (1) a tie front, (2) a puff stitch cord sewn on in a wavy design with (3) little flowers along the wave. Alternately, leaves and vines could be used. The multi-color flowers are made long and rolled into shape.
In Yellow: Work a chain of 75 or make a cord. At the end of the chain, work a small leaf or ball. Sew the tie front onto the shawl at the point where the popcorns end and the shells begin.
In Green: The small leaf pattern is ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 5 chs, hdc, sc. At end, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook (this provides a natural rotation), then mirror the stitches on this opposite side. At end, sc in beg sc, ch 2, end. Break thread long enough to sew/attach to the tie front chain.
If Using Velvet or Silk: Cut strands to the desired length, fold end and sew.
If using one color, make a puff cord. *ch2, pull up for height similar to a triple crochet, then work 4-dc-puff-tog, yo draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 5, sl st in bottom (that is the beginning ch 1), rotate the piece, ch 5, sl st in top of puff-corn (this creates a circle around the puff st), repeat for length which should be longer than the actual width of the shawlette to form a wavy pattern along the center.
If using two colors, In Yellow: make a chain of 5-triple-crochet-popcorns to the desired length. I did 87. Then in Beige: work a sl st in end, *ch 5, sl st in between popcorn, at end work an extra ch 3, sl st, then continue down opposite side with ch 5, sl st between. When determining the length needed for shawl, begin at center back with arch, and follow the “S” shaped wavy design to end; the straight length of the popcorn chain will be about 1/4 longer than the shawlette. The cord can be stretched some to fit length, but if it’s crocheted too long, use ends to form a spiral/circle design in front.
If using Beads Only, In Yellow: use 8mm and in variegated beige/earth tones use Size 11 Seed Beads. Bringing in various elements or textures can improve the overall appearance. Feel free to experiment and be creative.
In multiple colors, make any type of flower you desire; all the same or use a variety including medallions, beaded, velvet millinery or organza flowers. I used a variety, including medallions, mostly freeform, but here’s one I took notes for:
Begin with dark brown: ch 5, join with sl st to first ch to form ring, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with sl st to beg st and draw up 2nd color (red), make 12 4-dc-popcorns with a ch 2 in between, join and change thread to pink, make one round consisting of twelve (12) ch3 loops. Add a 2nd rnd of six (6) ch4 loops using every other skipped st, do not decorate the top layer until end. Con’t. in pink, make six (6) shell petals using the ch4 loops, the shell consisting of (sc,5dc,sc), at end, join, make a picot (ch3, sc in top of last st) in between shells, ch3, and picot in the center dc of shell, ch3 again, and picot in between shells, continue around, join and break thread. Then, using green, go back and decorate the ch3 loops with (sc-hdc-sc, ch 1) in each loop, join, break thread. Weave in tails. This flower is shown on front 2nd right.
Arrange decorations, pin in place and sew/affix with sewing thread. Trim fringe. Add beadwork (optional). Sew on labels, tags and/or laundry instructions. If storing on a hanger or in a box, press and starch the material; “blast” fringe with steam. Allow to dry in shape, then store on cedar hanger or in a box with a moisture retardant pack.